ALL ABOUT THESSALONIKI

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Formerly the co-capital of the Byzantine Empire, Thessaloniki is the second largest city in Greece. It is located in Northern Greece and is surrounded by low hills and facing the Thermaikos Gulf. It has a busy port that is complimented by a beautiful waterfront promenade.

This city has beautiful parks, many museums and even though it that has maintained a continuous history of 3,000 years, it has become a very modern city known for its nightlife, it’s shopping, its food and deserts as well as its ancient monuments. It is also home to many a Greek poet, writer, musician and philosopher.

With the combination of ancient ruins and the modern buildings this cosmopolitan city is said to be more attractive than the actual capital of Greece. Sometimes referred to as the Jewel of the North, Thessaloniki does not have many high rise buildings which is great for the city’s visitors and residents as there are sea vies from all over town. Thessaloniki has a lively café culture and many of the cafes and restaurants are found in the two main squares that sit on the waterfront.

Thessaloniki is famous for its White Tower, if you have seen photographs of Thessaloniki this is the tower you will have seen. It was built as part of the city’s walls and now stands alone on the waterfront. It has become the city’s most famous landmark.

This great city is provides it visitors with all the necessary facilities, copious accommodation options, sea views, beautiful old buildings, landmarks, Byzantine churches and much much more.

HISTORY

Thessaloniki was built in the area where ancient Therme stood. It was founded by King Kassandros in 315 BC. He named the city after his wife, who was a relation of Alexander the Great. By the 2nd century BC the city had become a protected city with walls built around it.

Like most of Greece Thessaloniki has been home to many a different civilization, because of its strategic position and its port that provides access to the Aegean and the Eastern Markets. There are cultural influences from the Turkish, the Jewish, the Serbians but also from the Ottoman, Byzantine and Roman Empire.

The Romans took over in 168 BC when the Kingdom of Macedon fell. The Romans took advantage of the position of the city and used it to connect the trading routes between Turkey and Albania as well as facilitating trade with Asia. They built a harbour (the famous “Burrowed Harbour”) that accommodated all the trade, up until the 18th century.

In 379, during the Byzantine Era, Thessaloniki became second only to Constantinople. During the Byzantine Era the city was subjected to a lot of violence. This included the invasion of by the Slavs and the Barbarians, which led to the slaughter of slaves and citizens. The city was only restored during the gradual recovery of the Byzantine power during the 10th, 11th and 12th Century. Due to its past, a strong Jewish community re-established itself in the 12th Century.

Thessaloniki moved into the hands of the Latin Empire in 1204 after flourishing financially as well as culturally under the Byzantine rule.

The city then changed hands between the Latin Empire, the Greeks, the Bulgarians and then back to the Byzantine Empire all between 1204 and 1246. The swapping of hands did not effect the growth of the city instead the city obtained a great intellectual and artistic reputation.

Thessaloniki was not left alone for long and it eventually was ruled by the Zealot Social Movement, who introduced progressive social ideas during their short rule.

The Byzantine Empire finally let go of the city in 1423 when they sold it to the Venetians, who lost the city after 7 years to the Ottoman Empire after a siege of 3 days. During the Empire’s rule the Muslims in the City eventually outnumbered the Greeks in the City. The Jewish community also grew significantly during their rule. Thessaloniki again was used because of its strategic position and became one of the most important cities within the Empire.

During the early 1900s a lot of Bulgarians moved into Thessaloniki and it became a hub for their political and cultural activity. The Ottoman Empire eventually gave into the Greek army in 1912 during the first Balkan War. In 1913 after the 2nd Balkan War Thessaloniki was named an integral city of Greece after the signing of the Treaty of Bucharest.

In 1917 Thessaloniki was set ablaze in what is now known as the “Great Thessaloniki Fire”. This single fire set alight thousands of homes, leaving in total 72,000 people homeless. Many Greeks then returned to the city for refuge from Asia Minor.

Thessaloniki also suffered largely from the bombings during the Second World War. However, the city recovered and was rebuilt quickly, leading it to eventually become the wonderful city that it is today.

You can see evidence of all the people that came through this area in the Modern city that stands today.

SIGHTSEEING

The White Tower

As we have already described above the White Tower is the city’s most famous landmark, so you will appreciate that this is something you have got to see. You can see it by walking along the waterfront but we would suggest that you go up to their rooftop café. From up there you can sip on a coffee or cocktail whilst enjoying a panoramic view of the city. You can also wonder into the Museum within the Tower housing artefacts from 300 AD to 1500 AB.

The Arch of Galerius & The Rotanda

The Arch is located in the Historical part of Thessaloniki. It was built in 305 AD to celebrate the defeat of the Persians. Unfortunately only a part of the monument still stands. It used to be an eight pillared gateway and now only two archways remain.

The Rotanda is located just a 100 metres or so from the Arch. This is a circular Church that was built approx 306 AD. It was originally built as a mausoleum for the Emperor Galerius but was then used as a Church and was embellished with lovely mosaics.

The Roman Forum

Originally a Greek Marketplace (Agora) which became a Roman Forum, this archaeological site is located close to the Diaksterion Square. It has an incredibly well preserved theatre which is still used for the occasional summer production.

Ano Poli

Take the time to go up and visit the “Ano Poli” (upper town) or Old Town. It is a vantage point for magnificent views and as it was not destroyed by the famous fire in 1917 it is the Heritage listed area of Thessaloniki. It has cobble stone streets, old squares, lovely little tavernas, old Greek and Ottoman Houses and is surrounded by the city’s remaining walls. You can also access the Seich Sou Forest National Park from there. Wander up to the top of this city’s Acropolis and enjoy some time in Old Thessaloniki with endless views of the Gulf and if you are lucky views of Mount Olympus.

Churches

This city has numerous wonderful churches, both big and small and that were constructed during many different Eras. Many of the Churches are found in the ‘Ano Poli”. Some of the most important Churches around are the following:
“Agia Sofia” which is a copy of the “Agia Sophia” in Istanbul, it was built in the 8th Century AD.
The Church of Apostoli is rich in Byzantine decorations and dates back to the 14th century.
“Agios Nikolaos Orfanos” was also built in the 14th century and has beautiful frescoes.

Museums

Archaelogical Museum: Rumoured to be one of the best museums in Europe, this museum houses a huge collection of artefacts and incredible treasures. You will even get to see the Tomb of Alexander the Great’s Father. The collection includes exquisite mosaics, the only fully intact papyrus in Greece form the 3rd Century and various other great items.

Museum of Byzantine Culture: This museum has a permanent collection of items that give a visitor of the museum a good look at what the culture and art was like during the Byzantine Era. They also hold temporary exhibitions.

Museum of Contemporary Art: a very newly established Museum (est. in 1997), this Museum has a permanent exhibition of the George Costakis collection which consists mainly of Russian Avant-Grade Art Works. The Museum also houses Temporary exhibitions and provides educational programs.

Municipal Art Gallery of Thessaloniki: the exhibition is housed in a beautiful Edectic Style House and it includes 1,000 or so Art Works and they also regularly have other exhibitions. The Museum is located in a wonderful part of Thessaloniki with old buildings which is worth walking around.

THINGS TO DO

Little Trips

Mount Athos: We are afraid only men can visit this Sanctuary. It is approx. 130 km from Thessaloniki but if you would like to take a step back in time and stay in one of the most scenic places in Europe this is the place to visit. The Monastaries resemble castles in their enormity and structure. They have libraries, gorgeous frescoes and mosaics, amazing seashore and incredible gardens.

Mount Olympus: 77 km from Thessaloniki Mount Olympus, the tallest in Greece standing at close to 3000 metres, towers up into the sky. If you are up for a long walk and a viewing of very rich tree and plant life, you should visit Mount Olympus and at least have a glimpse of it. If you are feeling adventurous you can climb the whole way up, keep in mind it takes approx. two days.

Vergina: this small cluster of archaeological sites, includes a palace, a theatre and hundreds of burial mounds. The area in which they lie connects to the life of Phillip (Alexander the Great’s father). He built the palace and the theatre and was assassinated there.

Beaches

There are no beaches that are in walking distance from Thessaloniki’s city centre. You will need to hire a car or jump on bus heading in the right direction. The coastline that runs along Thessaloniki and neighbouring areas is stunning and provides a number of options for people who want to have a swim.

Agia Triada- 26 km from Thessaloniki, this is a wonderful beach that has been awarded a Blue Flag. It is long and can get quite crowded in the summer.
Angelochori Beach- 30 km from Thessaloniki, here you can enjoy a nice swim or get active by doing some water sports such as Kite surfing.
Aretsou Beach- located very close to Thessaloniki this stretch of sand has cafes, restaurants etc.
Nei Epivates Beach- approx 24 km from Thessaloniki, this is a beach resort with 200 metres of sand to lie on.

There are number of other beaches you may want to visit but most are a bit further out from the city’s centre.

Shopping

Being the second largest city in Greece the shopping here is how it is in most cities. There are a number of Shopping Malls, boutique shops, street shops, souvenir shops etc. There are places you can find pretty much anything. The city isn’t very large but there are great markets and local shops.
If you are looking for a few souvenirs and some nibbles start in the local food market and then for whatever else you are looking for we would suggest you start your search on Agia Sophia Street, Mitropoleos Street or in Aristotelous Square. You should also check out Tsimiski Street and the Proxenou and Koromilia Shopping Areas.

NIGHTLIFE

This city is known for its nightlife! Your nights out here will remain unforgettable. The options of where to go, what to listen to and what type of bar/club are numerous. As you are aware the clubs open around 11 and stay open until the early hours of the morning. You can find traditional Greek music in Bars or you could even visit the Bouzoukia, you can find house, rock, soul, jazz, and pretty much anything else. The liveliest areas for going out are Ladadika, Mylos, Nea Krini and Aretsou, you will find everything from clubs and bars to ouzeris and restaurants.

If you are in the mood for gambling there is also a casino you can visit which is about an hour’s drive form the centre out toward the airport.

WHERE TO WINE AND DINE

The options of where to eat in Thessaloniki are also numerous. You can choose to eat down by the waterfront, in town or up by the castle walls in “Ano Poli”. It all depends what you are looking for. The area of town that accommodates more for the younger crowd is around Aristotelous square, the square has various cafes and restaurants. If you are looking for ouzeris and meze you should wander down to Ionos Dragoumi.

The food in Thessaloniki in general is of good value and of a good quality. You should try the Bougatsa’s with cheese, potatoes etc and their large souvlakia. The cuisine in this city is largely influenced by the East due to the occupation of the Ottoman Empire.
Thessaloniki is famous for a number of sweets and pastries so don’t miss the chance to try them. You have to try their traditional sweet Bougatsa (cream pie), Trigona panoramas (pastry filled with chocolate or vanilla cream) and Tsoureki (sweet bread).

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THESSALONIKI

THESSALONIKI

Peloponnese paradise: Deserted beaches and ancient olive groves in the 'new' Greece

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We found this article from the Daily mail which we believe that you will find very interesting!
Enjoy the read!


Peloponnese paradise: Deserted beaches and ancient olive groves in the 'new' Greece
By LEE MANNION

If anyone needs your holiday money at the moment, it's Greece.
The birthplace of modern civilisation, philosophy and medicine has become the sick man of Europe and those mental images of beautiful, sunkissed beaches have somehow been replaced by news footage of violent protests and riots.
But there's no sign of drama and destitution down in the Western part of the Peloponnese - Greece's southern peninsula - only a bullish determination to focus on the country's lucrative tourist industry with a new Mediterranean development.

Costa Navarino, in the south-west region of Messinia, didn't exist five years ago. If you'd visited the area back then you would have experienced a rough and ready coastline with hot and dusty countryside that mostly existed on olive agriculture.

The place to be: The Costa Navarino hopes to be the next big thing in the Mediterranean
But that was before a local shipping magnate spotted the coastal area's potential and vowed to make it Greece's new must-visit destination.
Captain Vassilis Constantakopoulos dreamt up a plan to create a high-end resort that would fit in with the natural beauty of the area and provide enough local jobs so that young men wouldn't have to keep leaving to head for the cities and tourist areas.
The result is a surprisingly subtle development featuring two hotels, the Westin Resort - which I was to call home during my stay - and the Romanos Luxury Collection, both set among olive groves with views out over the Ionian Sea.

While the hotels offer all the resort facilities we have come to expect from a luxury Mediterranean holiday destination, including multiple restaurants and golf courses, 90 per cent of the area is reserved for natural or cultivated greenery, as per the orders of Captain Constantakopoulos.

The strict environmental regulations maintain the quiet ambiance and rugged scenery that is so associated with the Peloponnese, an area that, although known as the garden of Greece, has remained surprisingly untouched by mass tourism.
There are still stretches of serene sandy beach and pretty white-washed villages as well as little-visited Mykenaean palaces and Byzantine churches dotted around the Messinia province.

Take a dip: Voidokilia Beach is one of the best in the world according to the New York Times
And the culinary offerings are enough to have anyone salivating. No wonder Costa Navarino has decided to cash in on the food of the gods by offering cookery courses. All the health benefits of a Mediterranean diet are taught here and the food is so local, you can go and pick it yourself.
The head chef is Doxis Bekris, who has worked with British big hitters like Gordon Ramsay and Marco Pierre White, and has previously helped guests conjure up dishes like succulent roasted chicken fillet, stuffed with aromatic herbs, butter and a yogurt sauce.

Chop chop: Lee gets to grips with some local produce in the kitchen
And his own protegees are on hand to help this novice with everything from how to chop properly to recognising which vegetables in the kitchen garden are ripe enough to be picked.
But finding fresh produce to cook can be a hair-raising business. The ingredients don't always grow where you want them to.
Wild fennel, for example, prospers around the golf course, leading to Monty Python-esque scenes featuring chefs dashing across the greens in their whites, halting golfers mid swing so they can find what is needed for the night's dinner menu.
Olive trees are everywhere (6,500 of them were successfully transplanted as the resort took shape) and the estate makes good use of them. Aside from the olive oil produced, you can find some unusual local delicacies.
Mixed with herbs, spices and dough, the oil is the vital ingredient in koulourakia, moreish cinnamon smelling biscuits traditionally baked at Easter.
Then there is Elea, a single olive softened and sweetened with honey offered on a silver teaspoon as a welcome to guests. It may sound strange, but it tastes a little like a syrupy date.
Further use is made of Greece's most famous export in the hotel's serene Anazoe spa, which offers oil-based wraps and massages.
Back at the Westin, I retire to my room after a morning spent picking and chopping, to lounge on the terrace, which comes complete with my own infinity pool and view to the sea.
The other hotel on the complex, the Romanos, even offers rooms with three levels of water: You can recline in your bath, overlooking your pool and the sea beyond.

Down at the beach, a five minute stroll away, staff proffer towels as I arrive for a swim and I am assured that if I want to indulge in a more energetic pastime, paddle boarding and windsurfing can be arranged.
Ten minutes down the road lies Voidokilia, one of the best beaches in the world according to the New York Times and well worth a visit. Its shallow, crystalline waters are overlooked by a crumbling 13th Century castle and just set back from the coast is the Gialova wetland, a favourite stop-over for 225 species of birds migrating to Africa.
Although Voidokilia means 'belly of the ox', from the air this great curve of a sandy beach is shaped more like the Greek letter Omega Ω.
When the evening rolls around and my stomach begins to rumble again, it is time to find out what Doxis could do at another Omega, one of several restaurants on the complex.

True retreat: The to hotels offer serene pools and plenty of space for lounging around
The name of the restaurant here alludes to the philosophy behind the menu, which is created around foods that contain healthy Omega 3 and 6 fatty acids.
It is haute cuisine of outstanding invention. Of all the courses on the tasting menu, my particular favourite is a broad bean soup into which a divine nugget of tahini ice cream slowly melts.
Doxis' promise that, after several courses, I would feel well fed but not bloated, holds true.
Like the great classical heroes of old, Costa Navarino signals that the Greeks are putting up a decent fight for their economic and ecological future.
If the contented bellies and relaxed smiles of the punters are anything to go by, things are about to start looking up.
Travel facts

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Living like a local in Greece by international travel news!

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We found this great article by Marvin Herman, Delavan in international travel news!
We are sure you will enjoy the read!

Rumors of strikes, riots in the streets and a collapsed economy did not deter us from planning our October ’10 journey to Greece. As my wife, Judy, and I had done several times before on trips abroad, we enjoyed meeting the challenges of independent travel and did our best to protect ourselves from the anticipated glitches that were bound to arise.

Making arrangements
We arranged for all of our accommodations online, opting for hotels with lower, noncancelable rates wherever available. Our credit card, a Chase Sapphire MasterCard ( 800/940-7592 ) with no annual fee, provides a decent trip-insurance policy that protects against forfeitures.

For the first time in our travels, we armed ourselves with a cell phone to use on our journey. .



For our stay in Athens, we rented an apartment for €75 ($107) per night, payable in cash on arrival. It was located in a quiet neighborhood south of the Plaka, within walking distance of the Acropolis and near the Syngrou-Fix Metro Station. It had two large bedrooms; a washer/dryer; TV (no English channels); all required kitchen appliances, dishes and utensils; free use of a computer, and a nice terrace.

Evangelos, the owner of the apartment, was very helpful, providing a map in advance so we could easily find the apartment from the Metro station. The Metro senior fare from the airport to our stop was €3 each.

The Athens Metro is the most modern system we have seen in Europe. The trains are clean, efficient and fast, and the signage is more than adequate for visitors. This infrastructure, like much in modern Athens, was improved for the 2004 Olympics.

Settling in

After settling in, we found a supermarket where we could stock up on olives, tomatoes, feta cheese, yogurt and coffee, and there was a bakery on the corner of our block where I would go to buy fresh bread each morning. We enjoyed being regular neighborhood people and, after the first day, we would be greeted by people whom we had previously encountered on the streets or in stores.

On our first morning in Athens, we walked over to Syngrou Avenue, a main thoroughfare, to find a travel agent who would sell us tickets for the ferries that we planned to take later in our journey. We didn’t book these online because we wanted to get a better idea of what the weather would be like. As it worked out, the weather was excellent and we were able to buy our ferry tickets in Athens.

That morning, on our way to the Parthenon, we also got a fix on the location of the Hertz car-rental office from which we would rent a car a few days hence on our departure from Athens. We had arranged, online, for an automatic-transmission vehicle through Auto Europe (Portland, ME; 888/223-5555 . The cost was about $330 for the week we had the car.

Around Athens
In Athens, we also visited the National Archaeological Museum (28 Octovriou [Patisslon] 44) and spent several hours following the early history of Greece, from about 3000 BC to AD 476, the end of the Western Roman Empire.

A five-euro taxi ride took us from the museum to the Central Market. We walked through wonderfully boisterous meat and fish markets complete with vendors shouting about their wares amid butchers wielding cleavers and knives that flashed as they sliced through tendon and muscle, scales and gills.

In the center of it all was a small restaurant, where we stopped for a meal of Greek meatballs and grilled lamb, all wonderfully fresh and served with roasted potatoes, garlicky bread and sautéed dandelion greens. Washed down with a half liter of cold rosé, it cost €24 for the two of us.

Returning to our apartment, we stopped to pick up dessert at “our” bakery and enjoyed the freshly baked baklava (a Greek phyllo-dough dessert with honey) with coffee on our terrace.

The next morning we set off for the Numismatic Museum, not because we are coin collectors but because it is the former home of Heinrich Schliemann, the German archaeologist who excavated Troy and, later, Mycenae. It is a large home, nicely restored and worth seeing if you, like Judy, are a fan of this man and the ruins he dug up.

We also visited the Jewish Museum. Before WWII there were more than 75,000 Jews in Athens. Today there are around 3,000. The museum endeavors to be a symbol of the struggle to establish a Jewish community in Athens.

Driving in Delphi

By 9 o’clock the next morning we were in the Hertz office to get our car. An officious woman filled out our paperwork and gave us instructions and some directions. We had purchased a good road map of Greece (Michelin Map Greece No. 737) from Amazon.com before we left home. We loaded up our luggage and headed for Delphi.

I have driven in many European countries and I found the roads in Greece to be above average. From my fraternity days I remembered the Greek alphabet, and it was of help in reading the directional signs and the names of towns that we passed.

Soon we arrived in Arachova, a small town near Delphi where we checked into Hotel Likoria, a charming, quiet and modern little place at the far end of town. It had a small parking lot across the street, and our room had a view of Mt. Parnassus.

Soon after settling into our room (€86 per night, including a mediocre breakfast), we were hungry for a late lunch. Walking through the little town, we smelled the smoke of a wood fire near a sign that read “Taverna Arachova — 30 meters,” with an arrow pointing down a long set of steep steps. I investigated and hailed Judy from below.

A mountain view and a crackling fire were the backdrop for another wonderful meal (€36 total). A liter of the house rosé and a baked eggplant appetizer started us off. Judy ordered her favorite, roasted lamb and potatoes, and I had roasted chicken in a savory sauce and the ubiquitous crusty bread.

After our shared dessert pastry, we noticed that our waitress, the wife of the chef, was being fêted with a cake for her 44th birthday. We joined with her family in wishing her well and she shared her cake with us.

We soon departed the taverna, but Judy forgot her purse. The birthday celebrant ran most of way up the steps to return it.

The next morning we drove about 15 minutes to the Delphi Archaeological Museum, which houses and identifies many of the objects found at the Delphi Sanctuary of Apollo. Afterward we went to explore the site where these objects were located in antiquity.

We found that Rick Steves’ “Athens and The Peloponnese” was a great guide for our exploration of the places on the Greek mainland.

We next visited the town of Delphi and did some souvenir shopping. It was the end of the tourist season and shops advertised large discounts. In fact, the prices were very high, we felt, so our purchases were minimal.

On to Olympia

The next day, we left for Olympia and the popular archaeological site of the first Olympic Games. We visited the ruins, the athletic fields and the workshop of Pheidias, the sculptor of the famous statue of Zeus on his throne.

The Olympic site was crowded with tour groups, and we were pleased to be able to see the site on our own and at our own, slower pace. We also visited the small museum nearby that houses many of the wonderful treasures from the site.

We then drove to Bacchus Tavern, in Ancient Pissa, operated as a pension by Zapantis Costas and his sister Maria. Our room (€76, including an excellent breakfast) was small but had a wonderful view of the surrounding olive groves and hills.

When we went to pay the bill with a credit card the next morning, we were told that the card machine was broken and we would need to pay in cash. After I said that I didn’t have cash, my credit card was accepted and the charge went through the “broken” machine. A similar scenario played out many times during our travels in Greece.

At gas stations, always ask the attendant, before you fill up, if credit cards are accepted. Once the tank is full, the answer will likely be “No.”

Mycenae and Nafplio www.bestofgreece.co.uk/peloponnese
We drove over scenic mountain switchbacks toward Tripoli and on to our rental apartment in the small town of Kiveri, about five miles from the larger city of Nafplio. We found the rental at www.holiday-rentals.co.uk (listing No. 413446). Located at the end of the town, it offered a view of the Argolic Gulf from its large terrace.

When we arrived, the rental agent, Socrates Grecos, in response to our earlier call, had arrived on his motorbike to help us settle in and we signed his lease form. The rent (€60) had been paid to the owner, a resident of Washington, DC, in dollars before we left the US.

Once Socrates left, we struggled with the washing machine, finally realizing that the water faucet needed to be turned on.

In Greece, it seems that many people leave appliances unplugged or turned off so they don’t further strain the fragile power grids. We were to notice that again later in our travels.

Our first full day in this area was spent visiting Mycenae and its acropolis. Excavated by Schliemann in the 1870s, it is a magnificent ruin.


The city of Nafplio was our main target for the next day, but first we headed about an hour away to Epidavros (Epidaurus) to see its famous theater, stopping to admire a Mycenaean bridge along the way. In Nafplio, we parked on the street and walked to the big Saturday market. We asked for and received directions to the Old Town and drove to the port, where it was easy to find parking in the big, free lot.

We toured the Old Town, sharing a coffee gelato at Antica Gelateria di Roma, operated by the affable Marcello, who saw that we were set up with a seat, a glass of water, some cookies and a chance to use the loo.

Many shops in Nafplio were a cut above the usual tourist traps, so we found it worthwhile to browse them. Rick Steves’ book has a great tour of the area.

The plan for the next day was to return to Nafplio and climb to the Palamidi Fortress, said to be the best-preserved Venetian fort in the Mediterranean. But we know what they say about plans, however well laid.

We did drive to Nafplio, which was crowded with Sunday shoppers, families enjoying the harbor, parks and beaches, and many tourists. Judy decided to go shopping while I planned to ascend to the fortress.

As I headed up Polyzoidou Street from the parking lot at the harbor, toward Arvanitia Beach, I reached another parking lot, turned left and found myself on the six-kilometer Nafplio-Arvanitia trail. With the gulf on my right and the mountains on my left, I decided to join the many locals on this wonderful scenic walk, which took me about two hours.

Mykonos and Delos www.bestofgreece.co.uk/mykonos
After dropping our rental car off in Piraeus, we took a cab (€7) to the port and eventually boarded a ferry to Mykonos. Our fare to Mykonos was €34.50 each. We had opted for the middle of the three classes of seats on all of our ferry trips.

I phoned our hotel in Mykonos from the ferry to confirm that we would be picked up. As we disembarked, we saw a young woman holding a sign with the name of our hotel, Alkyon

Sophia, who, along with her parents, runs Alkyon, was one of the most caring, hospitable hosts that we encountered in Greece. She spoke perfect English, amongst several other languages, and was congenial and helpful.

She showed us to our room with its beautiful view of the Aegean Sea and, in the distance, the island of Delos.

By morning, the previous day’s rainy weather had cleared and we were off to the island of Delos. Sofia had a moment to drive us down the hill and direct us along the waterfront to the kiosk that sells the tickets for the ferry going to the island (€5).


The ferry was loaded with a mix of tourists of various ages and nationalities. The trip took about a half hour, and we sat on the top deck open to the sun and breeze. Once on Delos, we waited in line to pay the five-euro entry fee.

Delos is a very extensive archaeological site with temples dedicated to dozens of gods. With the map given to us at the entrance, eventually we were able to locate the various sites of interest.

We stopped at the free museum, which displays some artifacts from the site, then covered much of the island, including an amphitheater, gymnasium and agora. Even for persons without any substantial interest in archaeological sites, Delos is a very worthwhile destination for its views of the Aegean Sea and for the island, itself.

Back on Mykonos, our late lunch at one of the pricey seaside restaurants frequented by fashionably dressed young women with small dogs led us to conclude that life is not cheap on Mykonos. If Greece was a country in financial crisis, it didn’t seem to have reached Mykonos.

It rained during the night and the temperature fell to the 50s.

We set off to explore the town of Mykonos in the morning, letting ourselves get lost in the winding streets. Before leaving our hotel, we called ahead to Krokos Villas, our hotel on Santorini, to confirm that we would be on the hydrofoil the next afternoon.

We were informed that we had been given an upgrade to a room at the Avaton Resort & Spa ), one of the sister properties of our originally booked accommodation, also located in the Imerovigli section of the island.

Checking the substituted resort on the Internet, we found comments on Tripadvisor.com to be quite favorable, so I sent an e-mail confirming our acceptance.

Santorini www.bestofgreece.co.uk/santorini
After spending most of the morning transfixed by the beautiful view of the Aegean, it was time to move on. Sofia (what a treasure!) drove us down the hill to the hydrofoil, a double-hulled vessel much faster than a ferry, which took us to the island of Santorini for €41.50 each.

We were met at the boat dock by a taxi (€15) and taken to the Avaton Resort (€80 per night). At the walkway to the resort, Markos, whom we dubbed the “super porter,” helped with the luggage.

The nine-room resort is located on the edge of a cliff overlooking a caldera that is filled with water. Beyond its far rim lies the Aegean Sea.

Our smallish room, located near the outdoor pool, had a stunning view, a great shower and a complimentary bowl of fruit and bottle of wine.

The hotel did have a dining room, but it was located in the spa. Although guests don’t use the spa during dinner hours, we found it unappealing as a place to eat and took our meals elsewhere.

Using a map furnished by the hotel, we walked the seven minutes to the tiny town center of Imerovigli and ate at a nice taverna called Anestis (phone + 30 22860 25374 ). Choosing from the large selection of Greek dishes, we fell back on the familiar roasted lamb with potatoes and a large Greek salad (€22 with wine). After a stop at a bakery for some baklava, we walked back to the resort.

Unearthed in 1967, Akrotiri is a Minoan city on the southwest tip of Santorini. The site was later covered by a modern roof which, unfortunately, collapsed several years before our visit; the site was closed to visitors. We did see many of the frescoes of Akrotiri at a museum in Fira, Santorini’s capital city, as well as in Athens.

The next morning was cool and breezy, but the temperature warmed throughout the day, reaching the low 70s. Outside our room, I sat in the small alcove overlooking the edge of the caldera and, beyond a sprinkling of low buildings, the sea. The quiet of Avaton was soothing — no boisterous tour groups here.

Markos brought our breakfast, wonderfully fresh and complete with a pot of steaming coffee; yogurt and honey; tomatoes; olives; eggs; feta cheese, and coffee cake. After breakfast, we walked about 25 minutes to Fira to visit the Museum of Prehistoric Thira and the Archaeological Museum, both quite small but each holding many artifacts from Minoan culture.

Our best dinner on Santorini was at a restaurant called Nikolas (Erythrou Stavrou), in Fira, where we enjoyed sea bass and lamb in a comfortable atmosphere (€40 for both of us).

Paros and Piraeus www.bestofgreece.co.uk/paros
We boarded the Blue Star Naxos ferry for the ride to our next island, Paros. We stowed our luggage down in the garage so we didn’t have to drag our bags up and down the escalator to the passenger areas. Though the bags weren’t secured, passengers didn’t have access to the area during the sailing.

Sitting on the open back deck of the ferry, I phoned the Arian Hotel , our hotel in Paros, to get directions. It was a short walk from the ferry dock in Parikia, the principal town of the island.

After a good night’s sleep (our room cost €38, not including breakfast at €10), we headed into Parikia, a town of winding white passageways.


After about an hour of wandering, including a visit to a Byzantine church with an immense chandelier, we stopped at Symposium, a small restaurant with outside seating. For €7.50 each, we had one of our best breakfasts in Greece. I had eggs, bacon, fresh breads and jam and Judy had eggs Benedict with ham.

As we ate, a food peddler with a donkey cart came by to sell the restaurant fresh vegetables, and people opened shops nearby, greeting each other as friendly neighbors would in a small town.

At breakfast, we also got information on how to get the bus to Pounda, where we would take the ferry to Antiparos, a small island which has become a celebrity haunt since Tom Hanks and others have bought property there. Our round-trip bus tickets cost €3 each, and the ferry (leaving each half hour) cost €2 each way.

We walked to Antiparos’ center square and wandered the streets until we got lost. Then we returned to the main road, hopped the ferry and returned to Pounda, continuing by bus to Parikia.

The next morning, our last in the islands, we had breakfast at the port and watched as our ferry arrived for the 4½-hour ride to Piraeus (€19).

At Piraeus, we were besieged by taxi drivers but declined their services since we wanted to take the Metro to the Sofitel Athens Airport (phone +30 210 3544000 ), the hotel we had booked for our last night in Greece. Unfortunately, due to a strike, the Metro was not running out to the airport.

We must have looked as if we needed help because a young woman soon asked if she could assist us. We explained our predicament, and she walked two blocks with us to show us where to catch a bus to the airport (€3.10).

The bus was not crowded and made few stops. We, again, felt we were traveling not as tourists but as the locals do.

Back in Athens
The bus dropped us off at the airport, across from our hotel (€155 for the night). Shunning the expensive fare at the hotel, we decided to eat dinner at the airport (€19 for both of us).

Sitting in the boarding area the next morning, we were advised that there would be a delay because of an air traffic controllers’ strike in Paris. As a result, we missed our connection to Chicago.

Air France offered us overnight accommodations in Paris or a flight to New York with a connection to Chicago. Anxious to be home, we chose the New York option.

When we reached JFK, we found that our connecting flight to Chicago was canceled due to windy weather in the Midwest. Air France offered to put us up at a hotel at LaGuardia and gave us a coupon for dinner, since the missed connection in Paris was not weather related.

This was an unforgettable trip. We saw three different parts of Greece over 23 days, at our own pace and in our own way. We found our own way around on local transportation and, if we decided to sleep late or skip dinner, we were able to do so.

We always felt secure, though neither of us spoke a word of Greek beyond “Please” and “Thank you.”

If any reader would like detailed information on how to plan and execute an independent trip, please feel free to e-mail us c/o ITN.

Not all trips lend themselves to this form of travel, but in the instances that do we find it a most satisfying and fulfilling method of travel.

BEST OF GREECE
We hope you enjoyed this article! Since 1973 we have been offering holidays to Greece!
We look forward to help you take the road less traveled in Greece!
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